The Philosophy of Barbecue

What is good barbecue? That answer is wholly subjective, but I’ll share mine and see if you agree.

The easiest way to understand my definition is to try “rQ!”, a new local eatery at 643 Brookforest Ave. in Shorewood, also known as Route 59 at the intersection of Black Road. They do barbecue right, from their intentional choice of antibiotic, steroid- and hormone-free meats and free range chicken from an organic farm in Indiana, to their gluten-free sauces and bread choices and fresh vegetables sourced within 200 miles.

My definition of good, whatever the cuisine, starts with the answer to one question, Do you use MSG? I’ve written before about my extreme allergy to the substance, but the issue goes much deeper than a personal aversion to having a garden hose shoved up a vein in the emergency room. MSG is an artificial flavor enhancer which is just not good for anyone, except bad cooks. If you can’t make food that tastes good without it, you are simply not good at what you do and I recommend an alternate career path. When I asked The Question on my first visit to rQ!, I got the best of all possible answers. “Not ever, not in anything, we simply don’t allow it in the building”.

That response reflects owners Ron and JoAnn Rupp’s philosophy on several levels, and was the impetus behind their creation. They believe it is not only possible, but it is also good and right to offer food that is fresh and pure. Everything they do, from the design of the restaurant to the preparation and presentation of their food reflects the basic principle of “a fresher perspective”. But don’t let their simple, almost minimalist approach fool you into thinking the flavors aren’t as deep, rich and complex as only good barbecue can be.

They start with five fresh proteins: Angus, pork, chicken, turkey and salmon. You know the food is fresh when there isn’t a freezer on the premises. What they do have is a huge wood-fired smoker where the meats live for up to sixteen hours before gracing your tongue. This is the part of true barbecue that is an art – how long to smoke, what woods to use, and temperature and moisture control. From the first bite, indeed, the first whiff when you walk in the door, it is obvious they are masters and if they were painters would rank alongside Michaelangelo.

The next part of the barbecue equation is the sauce. To many this is the definition of barbecue, not the method of cooking, and it is even more a matter of personal taste when deciding what is good. Here again, rQ! does it right with a full line-up of sauces their master chef, Shannon “Firebug” Kimball has created just for them.

These unique flavors have won the attention and praise of the Midwest barbecue culinary world, a truly remarkable feat when you realize this is their first, and at present, only restaurant. While the opportunity to dip perfectly seasoned and smoked meats they have prepared in their custom sauces is unique to this one location, the lucky residents of the Kansas City area have been able to purchase bottles of these liquid wonders in 103 stores in their area for a while. Happily, locals here can now take home a bottle too, from rQ! or from Miller’s Butcher Shop, Simply Saucy or Tischler’s Market.

At present they have nine sauce choices, several of which are certified gluten-free, from boldly spicy to sweet, a Carolina-style, a mustard that works as well on the salmon and chicken as it does on the turkey, beef and pork and my personal favorite, the Ivory. This deceptive concoction has all the depth of flavor you expect in a good sauce, minus the tomato base. I’m not sure how they do it, but I suspect Alchemy if not outright magic.

Everything about this place is different and I say better than the competition. Interestingly, Ron Rupp doesn’t think of the other places in the area  as competitors. Again, that is part of his philosophy of barbecue. Coming from Kansas City where barbecue places are as ubiquitous as pizza joints are here, he understands there is room in the market for everyone.

Each establishment, whether it is pizza, hotdogs or barbecue gains a reputation for its unique flavors and style, creating loyal customers that return time and again. The advantage of barbecue, at least where rQ! is concerned, is eating healthy and indulging yourself are not mutually exclusive events. It is that commitment to natural, healthful and nutritious choices that defines rQ!’s philosophy and will guarantee its success.

Ron doesn’t call the other places competitors, and I have to agree with him. The term implies an equal footing, or at least having participants on the same playing field. rQ! is in an arena, all by itself, redefining barbecue. Then again, maybe they are just returning to the roots of the craft, the basics of good cooking and reminding us that flavor is the natural outcome of fresh, wholesome ingredients prepared right.

Check out their website, rQ!, for their menu and more information -